Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has always defined its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their children do not want to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
